The South Pacific Coast
The South rarely sees first-time visitors. In fact, many second- and third-timers have never ventured south of Jaco. But inevitably, once you do, you will kick yourself for waiting so long as is our case.
The South Coast has been described as, “The Amazon of Costa Rica” or “the most biodiverse place on the planet.”
It’s a wild tropical paradise teeming with wildlife and lush vegetation. From enchanting, secluded beaches to celebrated ecotourism destinations, Costa Rica’s South Pacific is an outdoor adventurer’s dream.
The climate here is hot, tropical and rainy throughout the year and the South Pacific’s forests are some of the most bountiful in the country.
The South Pacific coast stretches from Dominical south down to Pacific Coast and eastward across the rugged Talamanca Mountain range to the Panama border. The region encompasses such famous sites as the Costa Ballena, The Ballena National Marine Park, the Osa Peninsula, Corcovado National Park, Cano Island Biological Reserve, Golfo Dolce and Mt. Cirripo — Costa Rica’s highest peak.
The beaches along the South Pacific are some of the world’s most pristine and include such legendary surfing spots as Dominical, Pavones, Zacundo and Matapalo.
The remote and untouched Osa Peninsula is home to the vast Corcovado National Park, named by National Geographic Magazine as the most “biologically intense place on Earth.” Corcovado, in particular, is an awe-inspiring destination for adventure travelers who come to experience the virgin raw land rainforest and diverse wildlife that resides within the park’s limits. Roughly 10% of all mammals found throughout the Americas live in Corcovado and it is home to the largest gathering of Scarlet Macaws in the country.
Corcovado is powerful, vibrant and alive and is our inspiration in finding our piece of paradise here in Costa Rica.
The list of things to do in the South Pacific is extensive and endless: hiking, multi-day trekking, camping, mountain climbing to the summit of Mt. Chirripo, cultural tours to indigenous reserves, whale and dolphin watching tours, exploring mangrove estuaries by boat or kayak, sport fishing, surfing, scuba diving and snorkeling and sea kayaking.
If you marvel to spot some endangered species such as jaguars and tapirs, hike the toughest mountains or kayak along the Sierpe River jangly channels, yield such beauties as scarlet macaws and resplendent quetzal, relax in many of the slow-paced beaches, your next adventure destination should be the South Pacific Coast of Costa Rica.
There is a lot of solitude to be found here.
The South Pacific Coast has managed to remain an off-the-beaten-path destination. The region offers quiet solitude in an untouched tropical location. If you are willing to witness incredible places and have a once-in-a lifetime experience, we would highly recommend you plan for a minimum of 10-12 days traveling journey before your arrival at Castaway. Many experiences can be arranged as a daily or a two-day trip from your hub here. Just a reminder, all of your unique experiences require advanced planning.
Marino Ballena National Park
Marina Ballena National Park, located right in Uvita (a 25-minute drive from Castaway) is a beautiful park that protects 270 acres of land and 13,300 acres of ocean, primarily to protect a coral reef and migrating whales that gather offshore from December to April. Admission to the park is $6 for foreigners and there are many ways to explore, however, the most unique experience is to walk out to Punta Uvita the “Whale’s tale” (a giant sandbar) at low tide. Bring your snorkel gear because Marina Ballena has lots of great marine life and coral reef. If you prefer to relax, you are welcome to bring your beach towel and refreshments and enjoy the beautiful long stretches of beach inside the park. During whale season, we highly recommended booking a whale or dolphin-watching tour.
Nauyaca Waterfalls
Nauyaca Falls is one feature you don’t want to miss.
A 44-minute drive from CastAway toward San Isidro plus a 5km walk from parking to the waterfall, these falls will take your breath away. The Lower falls consist of a pool you can swim in. Since Nauyaca Falls is located on private land, an admission fee is required to hike there (6 miles roundtrip). Cost to hike on your own is less than 10$ per person.
The most expensive way to get to Nauyaca Falls, but perhaps the most memorable, especially for children, is to do a horseback ride to the falls. It is a full-day tour and requires prior reservation.
Poza Azul
Hidden in the forest above Dominicalito beach, this waterfall is considerably smaller than Nauyaca waterfalls, but it has a lovely swimming hole at its base.
Of the main highway, turn left past the Dominicalito soccer field and go through a stream, follow the road straight uphill for about 984 feet to where the road widens. If the stream is too high to cross, go back to the highway and drive south to the next left turn where there is a bus stop and go through the small village over the new bridge, then turn right up the mountain for 984 feet. You can park here and climb down the steps to the swimming hole at the base of the waterfall. Pay strict attention to the posted signs that warn not to leave anything of value in your parked car. Avoid holiday times and weekends when there are often large crowds.
Diamond Waterfall and Cave Camping
Costa Rica has many amazing waterfalls but there is only one with a secret cave where you can stay overnight!
Located in Costa Rica’s southern zone (a 1-hour drive from CastAway toward San Isidro + a 3km to the waterfall), Diamond Waterfalls are a set of 10 waterfalls hidden deep in the jungle. If you are looking for something more adventurous and an unforgettable experience, consider making the trek. It is located in the village of Las Tumbas, near Tinamaste (35 minutes from Dominical). For safety reasons, the amazing family that owns the land ask that you arrange a guided tour to visit.
This 2-day traveling experience provides an amazing learning experience for young children as they will be able to use all their senses while learning about the primary rainforest, wildlife, medicinal plants during the 2.5-hour hike up along a mix of (slippery) clay and earth and stairs. Behind two twin (26-meters) waterfalls, you will arrive at the main attraction — a day and a night base with an elevated platform for sleeping, complete with kitchen and “nature’s bathroom” designed in a cave.
At night, it is so serene with candles lit, falling asleep to the water rushing. The Diamond Waterfall trek is a unique experience that we highly recommend, especially the overnight stay experience. For reservations, use www.pacificjourneyscr.com.
Chase Waterfalls in Uvita
There are a few waterfalls around the Southern Peninsula and one that is not to be missed.
Uvita Falls (a 5-minute drive from Uvita town) is a short easy hike to get to and one that you could easily spend a whole afternoon at. Besides the 30-foot waterfall that also doubles as a natural waterslide (safe and fun for the entire family), there are also pools along the river to swim in.
Cascada Sandalo in Tres Rios de Coronado
At a 30 minutes walking distance, this is probably the closest waterfall to CastAway Villa. You just need to walk up the mountain along Coronado River.
Chirripo National Park - On Top of the World
Chirripo National Park is all about hiking. On rare, perfectly clear days, the top of Chirripo is one of the few places in the country where you can see both the Pacific and the Atlantic.
The ascent up mount Chirripo, the highest mountain in Costa Rica, is the most popular, challenging and exclusive hike in the country. The only way up Chirripo is on foot. Although the trekking routes are challenging, watching the sunrise from such lofty heights is one of the country’s undeniable highlights. Parque National Chirripo is a welcome respite from low land heat. Above 3400 meters, the landscape is paramo, comprising scrabbly trees and grasslands. Rocky outposts punctuate the otherwise barren hills and feed a series of glacier lakes that earn the par its icon name Chirripo “eternal waters.”
Wildlife Watching
The varying altitude means an amazing diversity of fauna in Parque National Chirripo. Particularly famous for its extensive birdlife, the national park is home to several endangered species, including the harpy eagle (the largest most powerful raptor in the Americas) and the resplendent Quetzal (especially visible between March and May). Even besides these highlights, you might see highland birds including the three wattled bellbird, black guan and tinamou. The Andean–like paramo guarantees volcano Junco, sooty robin, slaty finch, large footed finch and the endemic volcano hummingbird, which is found only in Costa Rica’s highlands. The park is also home to some unusual high-altitude reptiles, such as the green spiny lizard and the highland alligator lizard. Mammals include pumas, Baird’s tapirs, spider monkeys, Capuchin monkeys and, at a higher elevation, dice’s rabbits and the coyotes that feed on them.
Climbing Chirripo
The Parque entrance is at San Gerardo de Rivas, which lies 1219 meters above sea level; the altitude of the summit is 3820 meters, which makes it 2.6 km straight up. A well-marked 19.6-km trail leads all the way to the top, with trail markers every kilometer; no technical climbing is required. It would be nearly impossible to get lost. The amount of time it takes to get up varies greatly – it can take as little as 5 and as many as 12 hours to cover the 14.5 km from the start of the trail to the Crestones Base Lodge, depending on how fit you are. From the lodge, it’s another 5.1 km to the summit, which take another 2 hours one way. Most hikers start the hike between 4am-5am.
The actual entrance to the park is 4 km from the start of the trail in San Gerardo, which is 70 meters beyond Hotel Uran (end about 4 km from the ranger station). The first 6 km or so are mostly uphill, over uneven, rocky ground with some relatively flat stretches. Then there is a gentle descent toward the shelter at Llano Bonito (7.5km) which is a good place for a break. Here you can stock up on drinking water, use the flushing toilets, buy snacks and even aspirin. This place is however for emergency use; no overnight stays.
Just beyond begins the Questa de los Arrepentidos (“Hill of the Repentants”) and oh mine, you will repent. It is a steep uphill slog until you reach the top of Monte Sin Fe (“Mountain Without Faith”). A preliminary crest that reaches 3200 meters at around km 10. The trail then descends gently for around 1.5 km making you grind your teeth, since what goes down must come up! The last section is an interminable steep ascent before you see the green roofs of the Crestones Base Lodge, just downhill from you; breathe a sigh of relief before descending to 3400 meters as reaching the lodge is the hardest part. From here to hike to the summit is 5.1 km on relatively flatter terrain (although, the last 100 meters is very steep).
Carry a warm jacket, rain gear, water, snacks and a flashlight (just in case), but leave anything you don’t need at the lodge. From the summit, on a clear day, the vista stretches to both the Caribbean Sea and the Pacific Ocean. The deep-blue lakes and the plush-green hills carpet the Valle de las Mounas in the foreground. For most people, a minimum of 2 days is needed to climb from the ranger station in San Gerardo to the summit and back, leaving no time for exploration.
Advance planning
Hiking up Chirripo requires a bit of planning, though the process became significantly easier in 2016 when Sistema National de Areas de Conservacion (SINAC) created an online booking system for park permits, which can be found at serviciosenlinea.sinac.go.cr. You will need to set up an account to process your permits for each day you will be in the park, which can be done up to 6 months in advance and must be secured with a credit card.
You will also be able to reserve a bed at Crestones Base Lodge and, at the time of research, it was Consorcio Aguas Eternas that had the concession to handle lodgings within the park. Payment must be carried out with Consorcio Aguas Eternas consortium office (tel. +506 2742-5200, info@chirripo.org via email over the phone or possibly in person). You must arrange your payments within 10 days of making the reservation, then send a receipt with your reservation number to info@chirripo.org; otherwise, your reservation for the lodge will be canceled. Chirripo’s trails are well-marked and do not require maps. In any season, temperatures can drop below freezing at night, so warm clothes (including hats and gloves) and rainwear are necessary. Wear sturdy boots and bring good second-skin blister plasters. In exposed areas, high winds seem even colder. The ranger station in San Gerardo de Rivas is a good place to check out the weather conditions.
Ziplining with Osa Canopy Tour
Ziplines are a dime a dozen in Costa Rica, but this relatively new one is getting rave reviews.
With 11 platforms and more than 3km (2 miles) of cable, you will certainly get your money’s worth. For the really adventurous, there are also two repelling stations (one 30 ft height and the other 90 ft height) and a Tarzan swing. Count on flying through the forest, 100 ft high at times for 2-3 hours. Advance reservation is required. More info at www.osacanopytour.com.
Hacienda Baru
Separated from Dominical by Rio Baru, the combined theme park and wildlife refuge Hacienda Baru (35 minutes driving West on Highway 34 from CastAway, just 3.5KM after Dominical, www.haciendabaru.com) is a perfect daily adventure trip for families with your children. The 830-acre multifunctional property is a kaleidoscope of ecosystems. It contains primary forest, secondary forest, swamps, mangroves, riverbanks and more than 2.5 km of shoreline. Activities available here include hiking, birdwatching, obstacle course and ziplining. The Flight of the Toucan Canopy Tour is ideal for timid first-time zipliners and is recommended especially for children.
Recreation Surfing
Despite its diminutive size, Dominical is rife with surf schools.
You cannot go wrong with most; each has worthy instructors, teaching techniques and customer service. Costa Rica Surf Camp (www.crsurfschool.com) is a fantastic locally-owned surf school that prides itself on a 2-1 student-teacher ratio, with amazing teachers like Erica, who all have CPR, water safety training and years of experience. The amiable owner, Cezar Valverde runs a friendly warm-hearted program. We are one of his happy returning customers and we highly recommend them, especially when you introduce surf lessons to your children.
Visitors go south to heed the call of the wild.
The jewels in the South Pacific crown are the idyllic Golfo Dolce and the wild OSA Peninsula, brimming with wildlife and natural adventures. There is no place like it, especially when you travel off the grid, far from the sounds of modern civilization. With miles of undulating Pacific coastlines, there is rarely a crowded beach.
Parque Nacional Corcovado
Extraordinary biodiversity, vast primary forest, dense vegetation and trails that go deep into remote wilderness make Corcovado National Parque a bucket list experience for any big-hike adventurers or avid nature-lovers.
Covering over 100,000 acres, the protected land and marine area occupies much of the OSA Peninsula’s inland region, as well as a 40-km stretch of its western coastlines. It is the primary attraction in Costa Rica’s South end. It is a jungle gym of ecosystems and visits here often lead to surprising encounters with some of the rarest wildlife species in the country and the world.
tel. +506 2735-5036, www.sinac.go.cr
Sea turtles nest on the shores of the park’s perimeters. Bull sharks and crocodiles invade the area’s rivers and swamps. Nearly 400 species of birds fill the forest canopy. More than 70 varieties of reptiles, 45 types of amphibians and a whopping 8,000 species of insects traverse the park. Tapirs, monkeys, peccaries, anteaters, agouties, ever-elusive jungle cats and other mammals roam freely. The raw encaged Corcovado welcomes you into a host of natural habitats.
The Park has six sectors. The most visited are the San Pedrillo Sector (on the North-West side of the park near Bahia Drake), the La Leona Sector (on the South-West side of the park near Carate) and the Sirena Sector (on the West side of the park, between the San Pedrillo and La Leona Ranger stations). Los Patos Sector and the EC Tigre Sector are less frequented, and Los Planes Sector is closed to the public. Self-guided exploration is not permitted. The region’s certified tour operators and agencies, many of which are based in Bahia Drake and Puerto Jimenez, run guided day tours and overnight expeditions through several areas in the park. Tour guides can also be reserved through the Association de Conservacion OSA (tel. +506 2735-5036, www.osaconservation.org). With one day to tour the park, visit either the San Pedrillo Sector or the Sirena Sector from Bahia Drake on a boat tour.
Not only in the experience relatively affordable and easy to arrange, but you will also be able to set foot in the park (sign the guest book and the Ranger Station to record your presence), snap memorable photos, likely lay your eyes on some wildlife you have never seen and be back in Bahia Drake reminiscing about the day long before sundown. If you are unable to spend a night in Bahia Drake, travel through Sierpe and catch a full-day park tour; tours typically depart at 8am and return to Sierpe at 4:30pm.
With 2-3 days to spend in the area and ample energy, book a multi-day Corcovado package that departs from Puerto Jimenez, enters the park via the Los Patos Sector, provides downhill hike to the Sirena Sector, follows the coastal route through the La Leona Sector and returns to Puerto Jimenez to complete the loop. You’re bound to see abundant wildlife during the deep-woods circuits, not to mention a variety of the park’s elevations throughout the epic journey overnight stays take place at the Sirena Ranger Station, located halfway along the multiday route, in the thick of the park’s wilderness. The well-known and respected operator Surcos Tours, west side of the airstrip in Puerto Jimenez, just south of the Asociacion de Conservacion OSA (tel. +506 2735-5355, www.surcostours.com) offers a multi-day itinerary (2-day package or a 3-day package) and plenty more that suits a variety of interests, timeless departure locations and budgets.
Dress and pack for high humidity, scorching sun and torrential rain. Closed-toe shoes or boots, socks, insect repellent, canteens, sunscreen, a hat, a poncho or a jacket, a small towel, a flashlight and a basic first-aid kit are must-haves.
Biologica Isla del Cano
“Snorkeler’s paradise”
About 24km of the coast of Bahia Drake is the tiny 800-acre rainforest-filled island known as the Reserva Biologica Isla del Cano (Cano Island Biological Reserve.
tel. +506 8946-7134, www.sinac.go.cr
Abundant marine life congregates in the nearly 15,000 acres of protected waters that surround the reserve and its palm-fringed beaches. Once a pre-Columbian burial ground, the uninhabited island remains largely undeveloped except for a small ranger station on its northwest side that welcomes visitors on organized day tours. The region’s best snorkeling and scuba diving experiences take place at the reserve. Humpback whales frequent the area from December to March and July to October. There is a good chance you’ll see one playing in the waves while you are boating to and from the island. Shallow inlets and off-shore reefs are great spots for snorkeling and year-round visibility in the area makes it easy to spot sharks, rays, eels, octopuses, sea turtles and dolphins during open-water divers.
La Perla del Sur, just south of road 223, Sierpe (www.laperladelsur.cr) runs snorkeling and diving tours out of Sierpe. From Uvita, Bahia Aventuras (www.bahiaaventuras.com) operates snorkeling tours. Mad About Diving (125 m north of the National Park entrance Bahia, www.madaboutdivingcr.com) provides a full-day scuba diving excursion. The reserve has several dive sites. You can swim through an arch at El Arco and encounter white tip sharks and the Cueva del Tiburon, Paraiso and El Barco and spot colorful corals at the Coral Gardens. Discuss the various options with your chosen tour provider when you book.
White Water Rafting
with Rafiki Safari Lodge Team
In a prime spot right by the Rio Savegre; the ex-pat owners of Rafiki Safari Lodge offer ample opportunities for horseback riding, hiking and whitewater rafting.
We highly recommend them when would you’d like to introduce a first-time rafting experience to your child and end the amazing day at the hotel with the splendor of jungle safari luxury tents and a spring-fed pool with waterslides.
Secluded Garza Beach
Playa Garza offers pristine, isolated rainforest beaches great for solitude, sunset and endless walking, accessible by a short boat ride from the dock of Pescaderia El Coral (5 minutes, driving West on Highway 34 from Cast Way).
Playa Dominicalito
About 1 km south of Playa Dominical, this wide beach is usually calmer and more suited to boogie boarding and beginner surfers.
There are hidden rocks near the shore so the best time to swim is at low tide. This is one of the best walking beaches, with a lot of shade under tall palms and beach almond trees early in the morning. The sun sets behind a huge rocky outcropping topped with tine palm trees, an ideal shot for photographers.
Playa Ballena
This lovely strand is backed by lush vegetation and it’s fairly easy to get to from the main highway, along a short bumpy dirty road. There is free parking close to the beach. (2 minutes driving from the HWY34 to the entrance of the Parque National Marino Ballena)
Playa Colonia
This beach is perfect for swimming an amazing view of rocky islands, which you can visit by kayak.
The access road is a well-graded dirt road. There is a sandy break for surfing, with gently waves for beginners. In the high season, vendors sell cold drinks and souvenirs at the beach entrance. This is the only beach where cars can park practically on the beach and camping is included in the admission fee. (2 minutes driving from the HWY34 to the entrance of the Parque National Marino Ballena)
Playa Pinuela
Tiny Playa Pinuela is the prettiest of the Ballena National Marine Park beaches, nestled in a deep cove with views of small islands.
It’s not always the best beach for swimming at high tide, however, since the shore is strewn with large stones and the waves can be a little rough. At low tide, the smooth sandy beach emerges. (10 minutes driving West on Highway 34 from Cast Way)
Playa Uvita
At the northern end of Ballena National Marine Park, wide palm-fringed, Playa Uvita stretches out along tombolio (a long swath of sand) connecting a former island to the coast.
At low tide, you can walk out to the famous “whale tail” where you’ll get magnificent views of the hills and jungles of Uvita (and maybe spot a macaw). This is the most popular beach, especially on weekends, with shallow waters for swimming. On weekdays, you may have it almost for yourself. It is also the launching spot for boat tours and the favorite vantage point for spectacular sunsets. There is no parking at the beach, but there are private parking lots along the road leading to the park entrance, charging $4 a day.
Playa Ventanas
This scenic beach has interesting tidal caves, popular for sea kayaking.
Coconut palms edge the beach, which is sometimes pebbly with quite a dramatic surf, especially at high tide when the waves break against huge offshore rock formations. The ocean views are rivaled by the vistas of green, forested mountains rising up behind the beach. There is a new access road to the beach and a guarded parking area ($3 for the day), but it is advisable not to leave anything of value in your car.
Playa Hermosa
Hermosa beach (translate to the beautiful beach) sits between Dominical beach and Uvita beach.
It is perfect for boogie boarding, surfing, walking the gray-brown sand beach, or watching the sunset over the Pacific. The waves at Hermosa are a bit calmer than at Dominical beach, so they may be more suitable for intermediate surfers. The lush forest and mountains in view make this beach exceptionally beautiful.
Conquering Conquistadors with Crafts — Ethnic Tourism in Boruca
Once you’ve had your fill of Costa Rican wildlife, zip lined, hiked and surfed your heart out, consider what’s increasingly known as ‘indigenous tourism’ — visit the Boruca people and their village as they are among the only remaining native peoples in Costa Rica today.
Their ancestors originally ruled over the entire Southern Zone in regional chiefdoms and now you can find them thriving on the Boruca-Terraba Reservation. Boruca People and their village are among the only remaining native peoples in Costa Rica today.
The drive itself is an experience to be remembered as it takes you along the spine of the Talamanca Mountain range and the views of the picturesque valley of the Rio Grande de Terraba are breathtaking. There are several historical references to this Pre-Columbian tribe being called both Boruca and Brunka. Centuries ago, when the Conquistadors came to capture and enslave them, the Brunka people discovered that their traditional folklore masks helped protect them. The Catholic Spaniards were terrified of unknown demons, and the masks proved an effective defense against the invaders.
“Today the masks are a symbol of glory, and they are recreated as decorative art pieces.”
So they began carving, painting and wearing even more of those, and as a result, managed to intimidate the sword and musket-carrying Spanish. Today the masks are a symbol of glory, and they are recreated as decorative art pieces, provoking treasured memories of this unique cultural heritage.
This victory of the indigenous population over the Spaniards is also celebrated during the raucous annual three-day Fiesta de los Diablitos that lasts from December 30 to January 2, sometimes called Danza de los Diablitos — ‘the dance of the little devils.’ It is a true spectacle to witness. If you miss out on Boruca’s Fiesta de los Diablitos, don’t despair — a similar celebration is held in the neighboring reserve of Rey Curré in February, so you’ll have the chance to witness this captivating cultural festival if you’re traveling after Christmas.
There is also a smaller Fiesta de los Negritos, held in the second week of December in honor of the Lady of Immaculate Conception. There are dancing, colorful costumes, and traditional drumming and bamboo flutes.
“Today the Boruca are peaceful people who support themselves largely through agriculture and their unique crafts — a visitor to anywhere in Costa Rica will notice Boruca’s beautiful art and crafts in the better souvenir shops throughout the country.”
Their surviving population numbers a little over 2,600 members and they speak the ‘Brunka’ language. Fewer than 40 members of the tribe (or as few as 6 according to some accounts) can currently speak the language fluently. Many only understand Brunka when spoken but they rarely use it. Most of them speak a patois, a mix of the ancient Boruca language with other dialects and a dash of Spanish thrown in.
Be sure to check out the tiny but informative Museo Comunitario Indigena de Boruca in the heart of the village, created by the association, whose exhibits shine a light on Boruca legends, history, traditions and crafts. There is an elder available to provide a tour of the facilities. Hard to miss is also one of the fascinating stone spheres at the entrance.
Attached to the Museo is a small shop selling handicrafts with hand signatures of local people who made each piece — now that’s a bespoke souvenir. You can also learn more about how they create the natural dyes and weave their unique patterns and sometimes watch their resident carvers create the captivating masks they are so famous for.
Whether in the museum shop or elsewhere in the village, do look for Brunka arts and crafts before you depart. It is a souvenir that will be a beautiful reminder of this (as of yet) undiscovered part of Costa Rica.
As always, be mindful and respectful when visiting. In particular, refrain from taking photographs of people without establishing contact and asking permission. We were impressed by the fact that during Fiesta de los Diablitos, photography permits were being issued, their price determined by the size of your camera and lens, and the money collected going back to the community.
A 4×4 vehicle is strongly advised if you’re planning on venturing out by car. It is recommended to take that trip during dry season as the road can be rather challenging when washed out. For directions on a self-driving excursion or further help with planning consult the excellent local resource that is Ballena Tales”
Quotes by Gabi Aziz